Copains is French for mates, and the wine list is literally the personal collections of the two chefs who own it. More than three hundred bottles in a small green marble room, with ceramics one of them made by hand. Eat the crumbed whiting sandwich and the comté tart, drink whatever they push at you.
WHY IT’S WORTH IT
1The list is the owners' own cellars. Three hundred bottles they bought for themselves first.
2Two chefs with serious restaurants behind them cooking bar food on purpose.
3Open from four in the afternoon, which very little of Sydney does well.