Culinary director Esmeralda Perez named it after her grandmother and cooks South American against Lebanese over fire and charcoal. Sydney rock oysters arrive with a mezcal and rose mignonette, which tells you the register straight away.
WHY IT’S WORTH IT
1Mezcal used as an ingredient in a mignonette, not as a shot on a list.
2South American and Lebanese in one kitchen, both cooked over fire.
3A chef cooking under her grandmother's name, which sets the standard she has to meet.