Leather banquettes, candlelit high tops, and a soundtrack of afrobeat and disco in a room that looks like a 1970s restaurant nobody ever renovated. The cooking is Italian-Australian and unfussy: tripe done Roman style, cacio e pepe gnocchi, pappardelle under a short rib ragù heavy with saffron. Same group as The Baxter Inn, which explains the confidence.
WHY IT’S WORTH IT
1Swillhouse, the same people as The Baxter Inn and Hubert. That is a track record, not a coincidence.
2Trippa alla Romana on a Sydney menu, and nobody apologises for it.
3The room is a 1970s restaurant done on purpose. Afrobeat and disco, low light, leather.